This is a side track, but thinking about my trip down Baja got me reminising. All the people running away or getting away.
I had an affair with a guy for at least two of the three months I spent in Mexico, Guatemala, and Belize a year prior to my year long trip back through Central on to South American. Although I lived in San Francisco and Greg lived in San Diego he came up often to see me. We thought we might do this trip together. Well, he thought we might do this together, I wanted to go alone. I stupidly called him when I got to San Diego, where I was starting off. I got on a bus to Ensenada and when I got there he was waiting for me. Thank god, he forgot to bring much money so he had to turn around the next day. He was not happy.
After Greg left I hitched hiked getting a ride with another Californian guy. There was an empty bottle of Jack Daniels on the floor in front of me and he had another bottle between his legs. I was a little afraid until he told me he was in a hurry to catch up with his girlfriend who was somewhere in Mexico. Good I thought he's not interested in me. It wasn't until later that I decided his girlfriend wasn't interested in him and was trying to get away. Fortunately it wasn't long before he needed gas and I made an excuse to get out.
The following ride went smoothly. It was with a father and his son who both worked for some backpacking store. They took me to a hotel in Rosarita where I met and stayed with a woman and her young daugther to share expensives. She was running away from her husband.
My traveling is a form of escapism, but other people do it for real, too.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Amasya
Finally I am traveling. Again I'm lucky. Orhan, the pension manager of Ufuk, gave me a ride to Kaysiri an hour and a half away. He had to pick up some tourists at the airport so I saved bus fare. I was told in Goreme that the bus from Kaysiri only leaves at 3:30 pm and takes 8 hours from there to get to Amasya. If that was the case I would only go half way because I didn't want to arrive in the middle of the night. But in Kaysiri there was a bus that left at 1 pm. Orhan had dropped me off at 12:15 so this was perfect timing. And the bus took 7 hours. I was the only tourist. At one bus stop a student who spoke a little English asked me why I was going to Amasya. Why not?
Yes, why not? It's beautiful with the Ottoman homes lined along the river. The food is much cheaper here. Elsewhere entrees are over 15 trl. Here I got a huge platter of grilled lamb, with grilled abergine, tomatos, peppers, and garlic. I couldn't even make a dent.
It's an university town. I sat with some students along the river. A couple of them played guitars and a few others sang. Unlike the rest of Turkey so far not many spoke English and not very good. My Turkish is getting better. Well they say it is. Like the Spanish and unlike the French if you say a little they compliment you.
And I was lucky to observe a holiday today. As you can see from my pictures the young people were decked out in their costumes and dancing in a circle.
Last night I stumbled upon a Tom Jones Las Vegas type act with this guy in the tightest, glitterest outfit singing from table to table. The Turks were going wild. The men especially. I never seen such enthusiatic dancers.
Yes, why not? It's beautiful with the Ottoman homes lined along the river. The food is much cheaper here. Elsewhere entrees are over 15 trl. Here I got a huge platter of grilled lamb, with grilled abergine, tomatos, peppers, and garlic. I couldn't even make a dent.
It's an university town. I sat with some students along the river. A couple of them played guitars and a few others sang. Unlike the rest of Turkey so far not many spoke English and not very good. My Turkish is getting better. Well they say it is. Like the Spanish and unlike the French if you say a little they compliment you.
And I was lucky to observe a holiday today. As you can see from my pictures the young people were decked out in their costumes and dancing in a circle.
Last night I stumbled upon a Tom Jones Las Vegas type act with this guy in the tightest, glitterest outfit singing from table to table. The Turks were going wild. The men especially. I never seen such enthusiatic dancers.
Friday, May 29, 2009
George's House
I forgot to tell you about the second day at George's house. Since Halim and I took the coastal route we wanted to see what we missed by not taking the higher Lycia trail. We both thought this would be an easy day so we hiked up the to see the view we missed. It was nice but we were both glad we took the coastal route. As I said the coastal route was not easy because we would go down to the coast and up the mountain over and over.
So after seeing the view we went back to George's to get our swimsuits and then headed down to Butterfly Valley. This should be a breaze - Not! The climb was so steep there were ropes involved - four level of ropes. They recently put in new ropes because a German traveler fell and died last year. I loved it. I love climbing up more than down. It's easier going up, which of course, we had to do on the return. I didn't use the ropes at all then. I try not to use the ropes much because that's when it could be unsafe. Frailed ropes.
Down at the Butterfly Valley beach I swam. There are far better swimmers than me somewhere but I rarely see them. The water is my womb. I can go forever. I was lucky in Kusadasi a sweet beach boy, Ali Faut, who collected money for using lounge chairs lent me his goggles and then I could really go far.
That night after all the exercise I was very hungry. I was looking forward to George's dinner. I wish I had taken pictures of his spread. The first night there he must have had at least eight mezes. I thought that the next night would be more of the same, which would have been fine. No he had totally different ones. Unbelievably delicious!
I'm jumping ahead now to Amasya.
So after seeing the view we went back to George's to get our swimsuits and then headed down to Butterfly Valley. This should be a breaze - Not! The climb was so steep there were ropes involved - four level of ropes. They recently put in new ropes because a German traveler fell and died last year. I loved it. I love climbing up more than down. It's easier going up, which of course, we had to do on the return. I didn't use the ropes at all then. I try not to use the ropes much because that's when it could be unsafe. Frailed ropes.
Down at the Butterfly Valley beach I swam. There are far better swimmers than me somewhere but I rarely see them. The water is my womb. I can go forever. I was lucky in Kusadasi a sweet beach boy, Ali Faut, who collected money for using lounge chairs lent me his goggles and then I could really go far.
That night after all the exercise I was very hungry. I was looking forward to George's dinner. I wish I had taken pictures of his spread. The first night there he must have had at least eight mezes. I thought that the next night would be more of the same, which would have been fine. No he had totally different ones. Unbelievably delicious!
I'm jumping ahead now to Amasya.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Cappadocia
Remind me never to take an organized tour! I took one yesterday and I hate to be shuttle around with a bunch of people - most of whom I don't particularly like.
I didn't know if I was coming to Cappadocia. I missed it 11 years ago. Still I didn't make a decision until I got to Antalya, where I've been before. When I arrived at 5 pm from Fethiye I discovered that the bus to Goreme didn't leave until 9 pm and would take 10 hours. Maybe I'll fly to Van, I told myself. But I saw a fellow San Franciscan I'd met earlier and he was taking the night bus. I told him I was going to tag along. I'd save money by sleeping on the bus. Well, that has never happened - sleeping on an overnight bus. But this time I had two seats to myself and the row across from me where I put my feet. If the bus stewards, which all long distance Turkish buses have - you know like airline stewards - if they didn't keep moving my feet I could have slept great.
We got to Goreme so early the pension wasn't open, which BTW is called Ufuk. We walked around and looked at the hot air balloons floating in the air. When the pension opened we dropped our bags and because Yung was taking an organized tour I tagged along some more. We left at 9 am and didn't return until 6:30 pm. Every chance the tour operator had involved shopping. I didn't buy a thing and I've now seen enough iconic symbols to last me the rest of my life.
I would have left Goreme today but my clothes are so dirty. I have the wrong plug for the sink to wash them myself. My pension has to do it for me, so I went to the open air museam which is on the World Heritage site. It was jammed packed with tourists. I got claustrophobic. Let me out of here! I took a hike literally through the Red Valley and on through the Rose Valley. I loved it. I'll show pictures instead of descibing. I walked all the way to Cavusin, where I bargained down the cafe owner for some fresh orange juice. He gave it to me for a lira cheaper since I wasn't French. I was tired and didn't want to walk anymore so when I saw a guy loading some bikes in his car trunk I ask him for a ride. The cafe owner got a kick out of this. He told the guy to charge me 20 euros. We both were laughing.
This might be a good time to tell you, as you have probably guess, that I'm not going to Tajikistan. I found that it is really difficult as an independent traveller without a lot of paper work to go through Turmenistan and Ubekistan. I could care less about those countries since they are flat and no where to swim. I thought I could fly over them from Baku, Azerbaijan, but no I'd have to go back to Istanbul where the flight is an outrageous $1000.
That is why I took the detour to Greece. I still plan on going to Georgia, (where I plan on being within a week) Armenia, and Azerbaijan. I'm not finished with Tajikistan, but it won't be this trip.
I didn't know if I was coming to Cappadocia. I missed it 11 years ago. Still I didn't make a decision until I got to Antalya, where I've been before. When I arrived at 5 pm from Fethiye I discovered that the bus to Goreme didn't leave until 9 pm and would take 10 hours. Maybe I'll fly to Van, I told myself. But I saw a fellow San Franciscan I'd met earlier and he was taking the night bus. I told him I was going to tag along. I'd save money by sleeping on the bus. Well, that has never happened - sleeping on an overnight bus. But this time I had two seats to myself and the row across from me where I put my feet. If the bus stewards, which all long distance Turkish buses have - you know like airline stewards - if they didn't keep moving my feet I could have slept great.
We got to Goreme so early the pension wasn't open, which BTW is called Ufuk. We walked around and looked at the hot air balloons floating in the air. When the pension opened we dropped our bags and because Yung was taking an organized tour I tagged along some more. We left at 9 am and didn't return until 6:30 pm. Every chance the tour operator had involved shopping. I didn't buy a thing and I've now seen enough iconic symbols to last me the rest of my life.
I would have left Goreme today but my clothes are so dirty. I have the wrong plug for the sink to wash them myself. My pension has to do it for me, so I went to the open air museam which is on the World Heritage site. It was jammed packed with tourists. I got claustrophobic. Let me out of here! I took a hike literally through the Red Valley and on through the Rose Valley. I loved it. I'll show pictures instead of descibing. I walked all the way to Cavusin, where I bargained down the cafe owner for some fresh orange juice. He gave it to me for a lira cheaper since I wasn't French. I was tired and didn't want to walk anymore so when I saw a guy loading some bikes in his car trunk I ask him for a ride. The cafe owner got a kick out of this. He told the guy to charge me 20 euros. We both were laughing.
This might be a good time to tell you, as you have probably guess, that I'm not going to Tajikistan. I found that it is really difficult as an independent traveller without a lot of paper work to go through Turmenistan and Ubekistan. I could care less about those countries since they are flat and no where to swim. I thought I could fly over them from Baku, Azerbaijan, but no I'd have to go back to Istanbul where the flight is an outrageous $1000.
That is why I took the detour to Greece. I still plan on going to Georgia, (where I plan on being within a week) Armenia, and Azerbaijan. I'm not finished with Tajikistan, but it won't be this trip.
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Charmed Life
I've been told I have a charmed life. After five wonderful nights with Emino, who meant so much more to me than my first little fling with scooter boy, I wondered about my charmed life. Emino says, " Are you sure you want to leave?" "No, I don't to leave at all but that's what I do."
I'm miserable in Fethiye. It's a beautiful setting but it's raining just like it was 11 years ago when I was here. I miss Emino and I'm far far behind schedule. I wanted to do a trek in the mountains behind Fethiye, but now I'm glad the weather is bad so I can move on quickly. Unfortunately, Tuna, the owner of Fehar Pension, tells me the weather will be good tomorrow and another traveler wants to do the same trek. Of course having someone else help nogotiate the way would be nice. But I have doubts about whether either will be true.
My dorm room has the most fabulous view, I think it must be the best in Fethiye. The mountainous inclosed bay is filled with sail boats, the island of Rhodes in the background, the red shale roofs of the homes below. When I wake up the sky is blue. Oh no a bad sign. Then I go to breakfast and I meet the other traveler who wants to go. Halim is Turkish but is an economics professor in New York. He already has the logistics of how to get to the trail head. I have to go.
Having Halim with me is like having a free guide. We're going to walk the Lycia trail, but on the dolmas to Kabak we meet Maria, a Spanish -Basque girl and whe convinces us to take the coastal route. She has done both and she says the coastal route is more spectacular and there are places to swim unlike the the higher Lycia way. That's all she had to say - swim. Halim agrees too and with her directions we go that way.
The trek is not easy even though we take the coastal route, because we go down to the coast then up the mountain over and over again. The higher but more level Lycia way would have been less difficult. It was worth it. Later as Halim and I are swimming in our own private cove we both said, "Pinch me, this must be heaven."
Heaven wasn't over yet though. We hiked to George's House. For 30 trl (less than $20) you get a room, breakfast and dinner - all organic, vegetarian and comes from George's garden or other local farmers - slow food, local food and absolutely fabulous. Why would anyone stay in a Marriot, but I'm glad they do. I don't want them here. Plus view of waterfalls, mountains surrounding us, the deep blue beautiful ocean below. Pinch me! More tomorrow more excitement.
I'm miserable in Fethiye. It's a beautiful setting but it's raining just like it was 11 years ago when I was here. I miss Emino and I'm far far behind schedule. I wanted to do a trek in the mountains behind Fethiye, but now I'm glad the weather is bad so I can move on quickly. Unfortunately, Tuna, the owner of Fehar Pension, tells me the weather will be good tomorrow and another traveler wants to do the same trek. Of course having someone else help nogotiate the way would be nice. But I have doubts about whether either will be true.
My dorm room has the most fabulous view, I think it must be the best in Fethiye. The mountainous inclosed bay is filled with sail boats, the island of Rhodes in the background, the red shale roofs of the homes below. When I wake up the sky is blue. Oh no a bad sign. Then I go to breakfast and I meet the other traveler who wants to go. Halim is Turkish but is an economics professor in New York. He already has the logistics of how to get to the trail head. I have to go.
Having Halim with me is like having a free guide. We're going to walk the Lycia trail, but on the dolmas to Kabak we meet Maria, a Spanish -Basque girl and whe convinces us to take the coastal route. She has done both and she says the coastal route is more spectacular and there are places to swim unlike the the higher Lycia way. That's all she had to say - swim. Halim agrees too and with her directions we go that way.
The trek is not easy even though we take the coastal route, because we go down to the coast then up the mountain over and over again. The higher but more level Lycia way would have been less difficult. It was worth it. Later as Halim and I are swimming in our own private cove we both said, "Pinch me, this must be heaven."
Heaven wasn't over yet though. We hiked to George's House. For 30 trl (less than $20) you get a room, breakfast and dinner - all organic, vegetarian and comes from George's garden or other local farmers - slow food, local food and absolutely fabulous. Why would anyone stay in a Marriot, but I'm glad they do. I don't want them here. Plus view of waterfalls, mountains surrounding us, the deep blue beautiful ocean below. Pinch me! More tomorrow more excitement.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Haircuts
I got my hair cut and dyed in Kusadasi. I've only had my hair dyed professionally once before, although I have dyed my hair myself since I was 15 yrs old. This is the darkest my hair has ever been. I love the cut and the color but it was a little shocking looking at myself at first.
I had great treatment. There were four people working on me. I was given a beer, cigarettes and gum. I actually had a pedicure too. One girl for each foot. Both of the girls were darling. While I was getting the pedicure another cute young guy dyed my hair. Since this was only the second time I've had my hair dyed for me I can't say how it's normally done. This guy was thorough. It was all very relaxing. Then a different good looking young guy, Fetih, cut my hair so quickly I didn't think he could possibly do a very good job. Like I said I loved it.
This got me thinking about all the times I've had my hair cut in a foreign country. In Costa Rica I was having an affair with a Swiss guy. He cut my hair for me. At the time I thought I would marry him. He was an international lawyer. He came to San Francisco to see me and take a language class. He got on my nerves immediately. My brother, Jonathan, had to entertain him because I didn't want to be around him. Affairs are better left in the original country.
After that I had my hair cut in Rio de Janero. I was finally getting my Spanish down when I got to Brazil. I didn't know a word although some words are similar to Spanish. I wanted my hair cut short, but what I got was a crew cut - seriously. I could run my fingers through my hair and feel the tops of them.
I had it cut in Indonesia by a barber on the street. But what I really remember was having it cut in India by a barber. For $ .60 at the time not only did you get your hair cut but you also got a head massage and your neck cracked. I felt like it was the first time I could really breath. During a four month period I had it cut two more times in India just for neck cracking. Obviously I came back with short hair again.
In Spain I told the hairdresser I wanted my hair cut like Penelope Cruz. He was so nervous his hands were shaking but he also did a great job, even if my hair was only medium length and couldn't possible look like Penelope Cruz.
Many of you know that I love my hair cut so much from this guy in Zagreb, Croatia that I went back to same guy two years later. He dyed my hair for free he was so flattered but I don't remember him being so thorough. Still it looked good.
So I left Emin. Another tear jerker. Why do I put myself through this? At least it going to make me move faster. I want to get as faraway as possible because I'm afraid I'll turn around
I had great treatment. There were four people working on me. I was given a beer, cigarettes and gum. I actually had a pedicure too. One girl for each foot. Both of the girls were darling. While I was getting the pedicure another cute young guy dyed my hair. Since this was only the second time I've had my hair dyed for me I can't say how it's normally done. This guy was thorough. It was all very relaxing. Then a different good looking young guy, Fetih, cut my hair so quickly I didn't think he could possibly do a very good job. Like I said I loved it.
This got me thinking about all the times I've had my hair cut in a foreign country. In Costa Rica I was having an affair with a Swiss guy. He cut my hair for me. At the time I thought I would marry him. He was an international lawyer. He came to San Francisco to see me and take a language class. He got on my nerves immediately. My brother, Jonathan, had to entertain him because I didn't want to be around him. Affairs are better left in the original country.
After that I had my hair cut in Rio de Janero. I was finally getting my Spanish down when I got to Brazil. I didn't know a word although some words are similar to Spanish. I wanted my hair cut short, but what I got was a crew cut - seriously. I could run my fingers through my hair and feel the tops of them.
I had it cut in Indonesia by a barber on the street. But what I really remember was having it cut in India by a barber. For $ .60 at the time not only did you get your hair cut but you also got a head massage and your neck cracked. I felt like it was the first time I could really breath. During a four month period I had it cut two more times in India just for neck cracking. Obviously I came back with short hair again.
In Spain I told the hairdresser I wanted my hair cut like Penelope Cruz. He was so nervous his hands were shaking but he also did a great job, even if my hair was only medium length and couldn't possible look like Penelope Cruz.
Many of you know that I love my hair cut so much from this guy in Zagreb, Croatia that I went back to same guy two years later. He dyed my hair for free he was so flattered but I don't remember him being so thorough. Still it looked good.
So I left Emin. Another tear jerker. Why do I put myself through this? At least it going to make me move faster. I want to get as faraway as possible because I'm afraid I'll turn around
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Kurds
Emin is only 28 yrs old. His birthday was yesterday. Boy, I'm really robbing the cradle, but he's very mature for his age. He owns his own home: Ottoman style with dark wood, inlaid molding like many places in San Francisco, Turkish carpets and a roof with a view. He has a tea shop business in Kusadasi and a T-shirt shop in Van, and he plans to have his own carpet store soon. He's traveled to Indonesia, Cambodia, and China. Unfortunately, he's been to Iran and because of this he can't come to the U. S. yet. He's still trying.
I'm telling this because he's had a hard life being a Kurd. His family had 4000 sheep, they were doing well and the Turkish government took it all away. They went back to their farm later and tried to start again only to have the Turkish government confiscate their belonging once more. His father went to prison several times and was tortured. His two uncles disappeared - obviously murdered. All this happened in the 90's.
Like I said before the Kurds still have limited rights.
I'm telling this because he's had a hard life being a Kurd. His family had 4000 sheep, they were doing well and the Turkish government took it all away. They went back to their farm later and tried to start again only to have the Turkish government confiscate their belonging once more. His father went to prison several times and was tortured. His two uncles disappeared - obviously murdered. All this happened in the 90's.
Like I said before the Kurds still have limited rights.
Monday, May 18, 2009
Return to Insanity
I return to Turkey. I was in Kusadasi 11 years ago and, of course, I didn't recognize it. Nothing stays the same though. It seems to be 10 times larger, but I like it even with the hawkers and the touts. I just like winding streets you can get lost in. But to reiterate I was here in Turkey before and was a good girl.
Really, I don't go around looking for affairs when I travel. It rarely happens and until recently it had been, at least, 12 years. But here we go again. I have a light dinner and on my way back to the pension I'm looking for a sweet which isn't hard to find, but before I do I'm asked to have tea. People in Turkeys are always asking you to have tea with them so I do. It turns to politics my favorite subject. I decide to ask this guy if he is Kurdish because I just discovered that there are over 14 million Kurds in Turkey and they have little rights. I'm sure I met a Kurd before but like I said I never asked. Well, he was and he liked that I asked him. We talk more and he invites me to the house he just bought. Guys with nice houses are turn on. Of course, I just had an affair with a guy who lived in a shepard's hut, but I still like indoor plumbing.
We have apple tea. It's really delicious and non alcoholic. It doesn't matter. He told me he used to work in a Haman and gave massages there, of course, for men only. Just mention the word massage and I melt. This woman in Vietnam gave me such great massages ($3 for 75 minutes) that I told her I'd like to marry her and take her back home with me.
Emin (his name) says he can give a better massage without my top then without my pants. He keeps his cool, seriously, and tells me if I'm not comfortable about anything he will stop. Okay I'm going to put my clothes on now and go back to my pension. No that's not what I said. He said, "Can I kiss you?"
I never stayed in that pension. I moved into his house the next day. Last night he made me chicken legs cooked in this tomato, pepper and onion sauce. Tonight I bought a leg of lamb and marinated it in yogurt, rosemary, thyme, olive oil and garlic. We're having it tonight. I swear I'm leaving Thurs.
We have apple tea. It's really delicious and non alcoholic. It doesn't matter. He told me he used to work in a Haman and gave massages there, of course, for men only. Just mention the word massage and I melt. This woman in Vietnam gave me such great massages ($3 for 75 minutes) that I told her I'd like to marry her and take her back home with me.
Emin (his name) says he can give a better massage without my top then without my pants. He keeps his cool, seriously, and tells me if I'm not comfortable about anything he will stop. Okay I'm going to put my clothes on now and go back to my pension. No that's not what I said. He said, "Can I kiss you?"
I never stayed in that pension. I moved into his house the next day. Last night he made me chicken legs cooked in this tomato, pepper and onion sauce. Tonight I bought a leg of lamb and marinated it in yogurt, rosemary, thyme, olive oil and garlic. We're having it tonight. I swear I'm leaving Thurs.
Friday, May 15, 2009
Hitch Hiking
I have hitch hiked in about every country I've been to. You'd have to be on a suicide mission to hitch down baja Mexico now from what the news tells you, but I did 20 years ago. Just a couple of weeks ago I hitched in Turkey. A young good looking couple from Istanbul who were both engineers and had met during their university years. All of this reminded me of my friends Jeff and Tricia. They told me not to hitch in Turkey. I said why, "Someone like you guys might pick me up?" This caused a chuckle.
Yesterday I hitched again. I took the ferry from Chios. I thought I would be arriving in Samos Town. I studied my map. I knew I would be turning right, walking three blocks, and turning left to go to the pension I read about. But when I got off the ferry there was no turning right. There was no road. Everything was to the left and there wasn't much there. Samos Town should be much larger. Well I was in Karlovasi an hour away from Samos Town. Because I was dead set on going on my own way I didn't even see a bus at the port, which I'm sure there was, that took passengers on to Samos Town. By time I asked around the bus passed me. Then I got a different answer from each person I asked from five mins. to three hours to when the next bus would come. Me being the patient person that I am probably waited 10 mins. before I put my thumb out.
I got a ride from a retired postmaster who spoke limited English. The back of his car was full of stuff. I had a hard time getting my backpack in. When I finally did I couldn't lock my seat in place so that I constanly rocked back and forth.
I liked Georgio. He thinks like me: Concerned about the environment, angry about the pesticides that have poisoned the spring water and the fish, and he went on and on about the delicious wine that is grown on this island. He's telling me all this and talking on his cell phone and driving down the middle of the narrow road. He makes other cars coming our way practically go off the road. He passes other cars as cars are coming towards us. All along I'm rocking backwards and forwards. I feel like a pinball. I'm trying not to scream or even gasped because it would seem rude. Until now I thought Turkish drivers were the worse but this beats all.
So I'm staying at Pension Trova. I have a balcony with a view, frig, TV, the works for 20 eu. Acually the bathroom is separate but in this case it's right next to my room so no problem. And best of all I found a great place to swim- that means I'm staying a few days.
I got a ride from a retired postmaster who spoke limited English. The back of his car was full of stuff. I had a hard time getting my backpack in. When I finally did I couldn't lock my seat in place so that I constanly rocked back and forth.
I liked Georgio. He thinks like me: Concerned about the environment, angry about the pesticides that have poisoned the spring water and the fish, and he went on and on about the delicious wine that is grown on this island. He's telling me all this and talking on his cell phone and driving down the middle of the narrow road. He makes other cars coming our way practically go off the road. He passes other cars as cars are coming towards us. All along I'm rocking backwards and forwards. I feel like a pinball. I'm trying not to scream or even gasped because it would seem rude. Until now I thought Turkish drivers were the worse but this beats all.
So I'm staying at Pension Trova. I have a balcony with a view, frig, TV, the works for 20 eu. Acually the bathroom is separate but in this case it's right next to my room so no problem. And best of all I found a great place to swim- that means I'm staying a few days.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Repeats
Apie (pronounced Adree - long e the short e, which hard for me to say) tells me to come back to Molyvos. He tells me something you'll hear often in Greece: "I give you special price." I like Molyvos but there are few places I've been to more than once outside of North America - that means Canada and Mexico - you'd be surprised how many Americans don't know that. I went to Guatemala twice. The second time I was passing through to go further south. I went to Croatia twice because the first time was a wim and I wanted to see more. It was nice to see the people I stayed with the first time, especially Nensi and Tio in Dubrovnik. I was in Turkey before also. I love Turkey and the people seem genuinely sincere. They really want you to like them.
Now I have two people who either live on Chios or have that read my blog. I am sorry I didn't stay there longer. I did go to Mesta a tiny walled in city. The streets are so narrow and because of the arches it was almost like walking through a cave. The church there was one of the most beautiful iconic ones I've seen.
I also went to Pyrgi. The building facades are designed with intricate geometric and flowery patterns of grey and white made of volcanic sand.
Getting to both of these places was time consuming. The roads are so narrow there are constant nogiations to who gets to go first, then there are cars parked on the road with no driver - he has to be found. The bus driver then had to get gas and to top it off, after driving like a maniac, I guess he decided he would arrive too soon so he slowed to a crawl. Really I could have walked faster.
I went to these place because it seemed like I should. I go to museams because I think that I should. I try to be cultured but if I have a choice and it's not a rainy day I would rather hike in the mtns., swim or go biking. My brother, Warren, met up with me in Spain. I believe it was San Sebastion. I liked San Sebastion because there was a hill in town that I could run up every morning and an island in the bay that I could swim to. Warren likes to go over every painting with a fine comb. I got bored and no one was around so I started doing push ups. That caused all the security guards to come rushing in. What did they think I was doing? This was even before 9/11.
So what I"m saying if I'm not doing something active often I get bored. I need to find some good water or go for a hike.
Now I have two people who either live on Chios or have that read my blog. I am sorry I didn't stay there longer. I did go to Mesta a tiny walled in city. The streets are so narrow and because of the arches it was almost like walking through a cave. The church there was one of the most beautiful iconic ones I've seen.
I also went to Pyrgi. The building facades are designed with intricate geometric and flowery patterns of grey and white made of volcanic sand.
Getting to both of these places was time consuming. The roads are so narrow there are constant nogiations to who gets to go first, then there are cars parked on the road with no driver - he has to be found. The bus driver then had to get gas and to top it off, after driving like a maniac, I guess he decided he would arrive too soon so he slowed to a crawl. Really I could have walked faster.
I went to these place because it seemed like I should. I go to museams because I think that I should. I try to be cultured but if I have a choice and it's not a rainy day I would rather hike in the mtns., swim or go biking. My brother, Warren, met up with me in Spain. I believe it was San Sebastion. I liked San Sebastion because there was a hill in town that I could run up every morning and an island in the bay that I could swim to. Warren likes to go over every painting with a fine comb. I got bored and no one was around so I started doing push ups. That caused all the security guards to come rushing in. What did they think I was doing? This was even before 9/11.
So what I"m saying if I'm not doing something active often I get bored. I need to find some good water or go for a hike.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Chios
When I arrive in Chios I'm a little confused because there were so many people still on board. I didn't realize the ferry went on to Athens. On the way here there were romantic views of Turkey and some smaller probably unhabited Greek islands. Beautiful sunset- red and yellow going down between the islands.
I walk quite a distance to the recommended the Alex. Alex is friendly but the room for 20 eu is hot/ dingy/no window and the bathroom is through the living quarters where everyone is gathered around. I don't mind separate bathrooms but I don't want to walk through a crowd to take a shower.
On to a more expensive place which I rarely do unless I'm really tired and I feel like a splurge. A splurge for me is 60 bucks. I can't believe what a dump it is! Another hot box, worse than the last place but with a bathroom. Forget it!
I walk all the way back to where I arrived looking for another recommended place. I ask an old man, "Yasu (hello) Pou ine dormatio (where is a room)?" He leeds me to Filoxenia. It's a businessmen's hotel and full of prostitutes, but it's clean, A/C, balcony, TV with one English channel ( more on that later) and my own bathroom.
The receptionist asks for 25 eu but with the help of a translator I get it for 20 eu. The translator is a younger, well dressed mafio looking guy. I think he's the pimp. His blazer hangs over his shoulders like a cape. He gives orders to the girls in a fatherly voice. I find out later from some locals that I am right.
I walk quite a distance to the recommended the Alex. Alex is friendly but the room for 20 eu is hot/ dingy/no window and the bathroom is through the living quarters where everyone is gathered around. I don't mind separate bathrooms but I don't want to walk through a crowd to take a shower.
On to a more expensive place which I rarely do unless I'm really tired and I feel like a splurge. A splurge for me is 60 bucks. I can't believe what a dump it is! Another hot box, worse than the last place but with a bathroom. Forget it!
I walk all the way back to where I arrived looking for another recommended place. I ask an old man, "Yasu (hello) Pou ine dormatio (where is a room)?" He leeds me to Filoxenia. It's a businessmen's hotel and full of prostitutes, but it's clean, A/C, balcony, TV with one English channel ( more on that later) and my own bathroom.
The receptionist asks for 25 eu but with the help of a translator I get it for 20 eu. The translator is a younger, well dressed mafio looking guy. I think he's the pimp. His blazer hangs over his shoulders like a cape. He gives orders to the girls in a fatherly voice. I find out later from some locals that I am right.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Molyvos
Molyvos is built on at least five levels. I get lost on the cobble stoned streets every time. Every day I go to my favorite coffee place. I can lose myself staring out to the Aegean Sea, the multi levels of the village and the port. It's hot in the sun but in the cafe the breezes are a relief.
I hate Nescafe. It irritated me in Central and South America when I was surrounded by coffee plantations that places would serve Nescafe. I'm an admittedly coffee snob. But here in Greece it's so hot I want an iced coffee and that means Nescafe.
I can't imagine being here in July or August. The crowds and the heat. I discovered a great place to swim. There's a hot springs there that you can use for 5 euros. I could care less about that. The beach is pebbly but the water is perfect for me. I have family members who wouldn't like it. If the water temperature isn't like a jacuzzi they won't get in. I love it. Water, especially clear ocean water, is a womb to me. I can swim forever. I can't believe I didn't bring my swimming goggles. I thought I'd be in the mountains more. If I had my goggles I could swim further and faster and enjoy looking at the life below. There's some underwater boulders that I can swim to and stand on. I have the beach to myself. I lay on a flat rock and I really don't need a swimsuit. I don't want to leave, but I move on. I'm catching the bus back to Mythilini and then catching the ferry to Chios (pronounced Heeos). I'll be there tonight.
I hate Nescafe. It irritated me in Central and South America when I was surrounded by coffee plantations that places would serve Nescafe. I'm an admittedly coffee snob. But here in Greece it's so hot I want an iced coffee and that means Nescafe.
I can't imagine being here in July or August. The crowds and the heat. I discovered a great place to swim. There's a hot springs there that you can use for 5 euros. I could care less about that. The beach is pebbly but the water is perfect for me. I have family members who wouldn't like it. If the water temperature isn't like a jacuzzi they won't get in. I love it. Water, especially clear ocean water, is a womb to me. I can swim forever. I can't believe I didn't bring my swimming goggles. I thought I'd be in the mountains more. If I had my goggles I could swim further and faster and enjoy looking at the life below. There's some underwater boulders that I can swim to and stand on. I have the beach to myself. I lay on a flat rock and I really don't need a swimsuit. I don't want to leave, but I move on. I'm catching the bus back to Mythilini and then catching the ferry to Chios (pronounced Heeos). I'll be there tonight.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Turkey vs Greece
In Turkey a man will not sit next to you. On a bus he will stand if he has to. In a mini van where he can't stand, he will plaster himself next to the door so he won't touch you. A woman will never sit between two men. But in Greece the bus I took to a museam was practically empty and an old man plops down besides me.
In the museam I see lithographs of spread legs, pubic hair and breasts with men's hand on all of the mentioned. You won't see this in Turkey.
Greece is twice as expensive. After I left my dingy room in Mythilini I went to lovely Molyvos. I was met at the bus stop by a man offering me an apt for about $30. I took it. I have two large windows that look out to gardens and one with a balcony with a glimpse of the ocean. It has a kitchen so I plan on cooking. The first thing I'm making is tzatziki (a yogurt dip) which is great spread on bread here.
There is also a pool down the road I can use so I'm off to there or the beach where I'd actually rather swim.
In the museam I see lithographs of spread legs, pubic hair and breasts with men's hand on all of the mentioned. You won't see this in Turkey.
Greece is twice as expensive. After I left my dingy room in Mythilini I went to lovely Molyvos. I was met at the bus stop by a man offering me an apt for about $30. I took it. I have two large windows that look out to gardens and one with a balcony with a glimpse of the ocean. It has a kitchen so I plan on cooking. The first thing I'm making is tzatziki (a yogurt dip) which is great spread on bread here.
There is also a pool down the road I can use so I'm off to there or the beach where I'd actually rather swim.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Rats
I immediately feel excitement. It's almost a full moon night. Bars line the half moon shaped bay. I mean bars. I have a hard time finding a place to eat. I heard the Greeks drink until 10 pm then eat but where do they go? It's just the opposite in Turkey. It's packed with restaurants and tea houses.
Finally I find a little cafe and I have cabbage stuffed meat in a creamy dill sauce. That with a nice cold beer is all I need. Almost everyone speaks English and you can say I'm a liar. I didn't practice any Greek before coming because I didn't know I was coming until about a week ago. I don't plan on picking it up either. I won't be here long enough. Nor did I practice Turkish before coming. I didn't think I'd be in Turkey long. I did get a Russian phrase book and that's what I was practicing for the "Stan's".
It's way more expensive here. My shit hole of a place costs $25. Believe me I looked around. In the middle of the night I swear something heavy like a rat crawled across my legs. I froze. You know that freeze when you have to force yourself to wake up and move. Finally I switched on the light and it took me awhile before I had the nerve to check under the bed. I couldn't find anything but I left the bathroom light on and shut the window. I had a hard time falling asleep.
I thought of the girl in Vietnam who got bit and had to return from this mtn. village to Hanoi to get a rabie shot. It also reminded me of the rat the size of a cat that ran across the beam which held the mosquito net over the bed in Thailand. I was having an affair with a Swede 14 yrs younger than me. He threw a shoe at it. Some of my SF girlfriends know about him but probably not the rat story. They only read the unmentionable parts aloud from my journal one night. Having a good time of it at my expense.
I planned on leaving this morning, not wanting to stay another night in that dump. But when I walked out on the street this morning I loved the scene. Narrow streets packed with interesting shops and cafes that were all closed last night. The day is warm and clear. My capuccino is perfert. There are churches, castles, parks and museams I must see. So I'm staying put.
Finally I find a little cafe and I have cabbage stuffed meat in a creamy dill sauce. That with a nice cold beer is all I need. Almost everyone speaks English and you can say I'm a liar. I didn't practice any Greek before coming because I didn't know I was coming until about a week ago. I don't plan on picking it up either. I won't be here long enough. Nor did I practice Turkish before coming. I didn't think I'd be in Turkey long. I did get a Russian phrase book and that's what I was practicing for the "Stan's".
It's way more expensive here. My shit hole of a place costs $25. Believe me I looked around. In the middle of the night I swear something heavy like a rat crawled across my legs. I froze. You know that freeze when you have to force yourself to wake up and move. Finally I switched on the light and it took me awhile before I had the nerve to check under the bed. I couldn't find anything but I left the bathroom light on and shut the window. I had a hard time falling asleep.
I thought of the girl in Vietnam who got bit and had to return from this mtn. village to Hanoi to get a rabie shot. It also reminded me of the rat the size of a cat that ran across the beam which held the mosquito net over the bed in Thailand. I was having an affair with a Swede 14 yrs younger than me. He threw a shoe at it. Some of my SF girlfriends know about him but probably not the rat story. They only read the unmentionable parts aloud from my journal one night. Having a good time of it at my expense.
I planned on leaving this morning, not wanting to stay another night in that dump. But when I walked out on the street this morning I loved the scene. Narrow streets packed with interesting shops and cafes that were all closed last night. The day is warm and clear. My capuccino is perfert. There are churches, castles, parks and museams I must see. So I'm staying put.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Wrong Bus
I love it when I take the wrong bus, when I have time to kill and nothing to do. It's even better when it's a scenic route like a tour, winding through pine trees and wild flowers, periodically peeking out to the sea.
It's a free trip and I'm taken to the cafe bus stop where everyone is overly excited. I need to use the toilet, usually you have to pay some small pittance but this time it's free and the employee even hoses it down before I go in. They're the squat kind so this is easliy done. I also get a chai on the house.
Once back in Ayvalik I switch dolmas (small bus) and go on to Alibey Island again. I eat at Beybaba my only choice because every other place is packed with Turkish tour bus tourists. But it's good and I have a great view of the little island with some kind of ruin crumbling down.
This time my salad is made with lettuce, a little pickled red cabbage, cucumbers and tomato with that perfect dressing. I needed the vitamins because although I've lost weight the last few days I've been a lot of those delicious Turkish pastries and no veggies. I also got some thinly sliced abergine with herbed cheese on top, plus guess what? Grilled octopus.
I'm leaving in about an hour (5pm) to Lesbos. the ferry costs an outrageous $48 for a one way. It's only slightly more for a round trip. The Turks don't want you to leave and they want you to come back. But I'm not coming back until I island hop on down to Rhoades where I'll return to Turkey.
See you in Greece
It's a free trip and I'm taken to the cafe bus stop where everyone is overly excited. I need to use the toilet, usually you have to pay some small pittance but this time it's free and the employee even hoses it down before I go in. They're the squat kind so this is easliy done. I also get a chai on the house.
Once back in Ayvalik I switch dolmas (small bus) and go on to Alibey Island again. I eat at Beybaba my only choice because every other place is packed with Turkish tour bus tourists. But it's good and I have a great view of the little island with some kind of ruin crumbling down.
This time my salad is made with lettuce, a little pickled red cabbage, cucumbers and tomato with that perfect dressing. I needed the vitamins because although I've lost weight the last few days I've been a lot of those delicious Turkish pastries and no veggies. I also got some thinly sliced abergine with herbed cheese on top, plus guess what? Grilled octopus.
I'm leaving in about an hour (5pm) to Lesbos. the ferry costs an outrageous $48 for a one way. It's only slightly more for a round trip. The Turks don't want you to leave and they want you to come back. But I'm not coming back until I island hop on down to Rhoades where I'll return to Turkey.
See you in Greece
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Urgent
I told myself I wasn't staying in Bozcaada for more than two weeks and on the 14 th day I said, "I'm out of here before I lose my sanity!" What have I've been thinking, running around with this young Turk? One more day here and I know I'd never leave.
After another long night with him I went back and packed suddenly. Then ran over to Lisa's to tell her goodbye. People were already loading up on the ferry. Rush rush. I had this urgency.
I'm really going to miss Lisa the most but I have been foolish and have to move on. I have to regardless if I want to get anywhere. As you guys have probably gathered, because of my speed it's doubtful that I make it to Tajikistan.
I'm in Avyalik, another charming little town. I found the only European style coffee shop here. Unbelievable because even tiny Bozcaada had several. The Germans that own it just came back from Germany bringing with them all these pork products, smoked ham and sausages and different mustards and horseradishes. They invited me to join them for these snacks along with beer and German wine. I'm so lucky I can't believe I'm eating pork in Turkey. I guess no one in the U. S or Canada is. Still I'm not staying long. I'm taking the ferry to Lesbos tomorrow. Maybe I'll become one.
After another long night with him I went back and packed suddenly. Then ran over to Lisa's to tell her goodbye. People were already loading up on the ferry. Rush rush. I had this urgency.
I'm really going to miss Lisa the most but I have been foolish and have to move on. I have to regardless if I want to get anywhere. As you guys have probably gathered, because of my speed it's doubtful that I make it to Tajikistan.
I'm in Avyalik, another charming little town. I found the only European style coffee shop here. Unbelievable because even tiny Bozcaada had several. The Germans that own it just came back from Germany bringing with them all these pork products, smoked ham and sausages and different mustards and horseradishes. They invited me to join them for these snacks along with beer and German wine. I'm so lucky I can't believe I'm eating pork in Turkey. I guess no one in the U. S or Canada is. Still I'm not staying long. I'm taking the ferry to Lesbos tomorrow. Maybe I'll become one.
Monday, May 4, 2009
For Men Only
Lisa runs the local paper here so she gets in on all the action, meaning as a woman she gets to go to all the meeting. She invites me to go along. Of course I don't understand and it's too complicated for Lisa to explain all, but it was about farming of the vineyards. Although I've seen plenty of women working in the vineyards not one other woman was there.
In the same night some employees of another restaurant I frequent invited me to go this men bar for chai. Chai is tea and the Turks must drink 20 cups a day. I'm respected but they are fascinated by me. A woman who wants to be alone and not tied down by a relationship.
In the same night some employees of another restaurant I frequent invited me to go this men bar for chai. Chai is tea and the Turks must drink 20 cups a day. I'm respected but they are fascinated by me. A woman who wants to be alone and not tied down by a relationship.
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Funeral
After my little rendezvous we head back to town where I meet up with Lisa. "Do you want to go to a funeral?" Sure how appropriate. I put my headscarf on like a good girl. I have to look respectable. I haven't seen plots like these before. On top of the graves are a swallow walled rectangle the length of the casket, which is kept BTW the body - is just tossed over in the hole. Flowers and some kind of nice plants are grown inside.
Lisa and I make dinner again just like last time but with some fresh ginger in the cavity. I decided I like the fish baked more than grilled. It's so moist. We have wild asparagus, which tastes more like brocolli rabe. It's bitter but I like bitter. Like I said Lisa doesn't have a food processor but the mortal and pestil (sp) didn't make the fava bean spread smooth enough. This time I used her immersion blender which caused the stuff to fly everywhere.
The on going Bayrem saga. I take the same walk I did the other day but brought water this time. I have now walked every road on this island. I timed myself. I could've done it in 3 1/4 hours except when I'm almost back in town bopping to the Ramones guess who pulls up beside me? He looks at me like you crazy girl. He points to where we are to meet later and says do kooz. That's 9:00. Well he's late again and I use Lisa's phone to call him. When he first gave me his number I thought oh right like you're going to understand what I say. Well Lisa wrote me a note. Except he starts saying something and I don't have a clue. You say why doesn't Lisa translate. It's tabu and she would be an accomplice.
I leave Lisa's and head over to my apt. He's at a cafe, sees me and leads me over behind the ATM machine like no one is going to see us there. Besh (five minutes) at Lisa's. He swings over on his scooter. I say Akarsu where I'm staying. He could come in without anyone seeing him. Problem Problem the universal word. No problem I say. Problem he says. He heads out of town to the shephard's hut. No electricity No pillows No sheets No problem. It sure felt good to be held all night by a younger man.
Lisa and I make dinner again just like last time but with some fresh ginger in the cavity. I decided I like the fish baked more than grilled. It's so moist. We have wild asparagus, which tastes more like brocolli rabe. It's bitter but I like bitter. Like I said Lisa doesn't have a food processor but the mortal and pestil (sp) didn't make the fava bean spread smooth enough. This time I used her immersion blender which caused the stuff to fly everywhere.
The on going Bayrem saga. I take the same walk I did the other day but brought water this time. I have now walked every road on this island. I timed myself. I could've done it in 3 1/4 hours except when I'm almost back in town bopping to the Ramones guess who pulls up beside me? He looks at me like you crazy girl. He points to where we are to meet later and says do kooz. That's 9:00. Well he's late again and I use Lisa's phone to call him. When he first gave me his number I thought oh right like you're going to understand what I say. Well Lisa wrote me a note. Except he starts saying something and I don't have a clue. You say why doesn't Lisa translate. It's tabu and she would be an accomplice.
I leave Lisa's and head over to my apt. He's at a cafe, sees me and leads me over behind the ATM machine like no one is going to see us there. Besh (five minutes) at Lisa's. He swings over on his scooter. I say Akarsu where I'm staying. He could come in without anyone seeing him. Problem Problem the universal word. No problem I say. Problem he says. He heads out of town to the shephard's hut. No electricity No pillows No sheets No problem. It sure felt good to be held all night by a younger man.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Like high school but worse
My 86 yr. old mother has a high speed lap top now and she uses it. Stupidly I gave her my blog site. Lo siento!
Like I said this is the low season and I've been here almost two weeks. Seems like a life time on this tiny island where I'm the only female or foreign traveller period. Back and forth across the square "Where is she going? Who is she talking to? Who is she going with?" Well that they know. What are they doing is what they want to know.
Another guy Ali who doesn't speak English either invites me into his cafe for chai. One older man who does speak English translates. He writes down his name, Ali's name and another man's name on a piece of paper. Ali tears it up, writes his on another, and gives that to me as if that is the only name I need to know. My scooter boy walks by and sees me with these guys. BTW scooter boy did wreak his scooter and it was the reason he couldn't make me my octopus dinner. Well I'm glad he saw this little scene.
The next day is market day. I buy more fava beans, asparagus sprouts and go down to the dock without Lisa to bargain for my own fish. I get a beautiful fish for a good deal. I take this all to Lisa's to cook up tonight.
As I'm sitting there drinking my french press coffee Bayram (sounds like Byrom) my scooter boy comes by and tells me in Turkish to meet him here in an hour. That would be 1 pm. At 1:15 I get fed up again with this waiting and leave. As I get near the square for all to see he comes up from behind me, motions for me to get on and makes a u-turn to head out of town. Unlike last time he has cleaned up, brushed his teeth and put on fresh clothes. The closer we get to Azama the more he kisses my palm. At the, closed for the season, restaurant he brings out a bottle of wine and some peanuts. We sit on the deck for awhile then he takes the bottle and glasses and motions me to follow him to this private room in the back. This is all I'm saying for now. Remember I'm in a Muslim country and all of this is tabu.
Like I said this is the low season and I've been here almost two weeks. Seems like a life time on this tiny island where I'm the only female or foreign traveller period. Back and forth across the square "Where is she going? Who is she talking to? Who is she going with?" Well that they know. What are they doing is what they want to know.
Another guy Ali who doesn't speak English either invites me into his cafe for chai. One older man who does speak English translates. He writes down his name, Ali's name and another man's name on a piece of paper. Ali tears it up, writes his on another, and gives that to me as if that is the only name I need to know. My scooter boy walks by and sees me with these guys. BTW scooter boy did wreak his scooter and it was the reason he couldn't make me my octopus dinner. Well I'm glad he saw this little scene.
The next day is market day. I buy more fava beans, asparagus sprouts and go down to the dock without Lisa to bargain for my own fish. I get a beautiful fish for a good deal. I take this all to Lisa's to cook up tonight.
As I'm sitting there drinking my french press coffee Bayram (sounds like Byrom) my scooter boy comes by and tells me in Turkish to meet him here in an hour. That would be 1 pm. At 1:15 I get fed up again with this waiting and leave. As I get near the square for all to see he comes up from behind me, motions for me to get on and makes a u-turn to head out of town. Unlike last time he has cleaned up, brushed his teeth and put on fresh clothes. The closer we get to Azama the more he kisses my palm. At the, closed for the season, restaurant he brings out a bottle of wine and some peanuts. We sit on the deck for awhile then he takes the bottle and glasses and motions me to follow him to this private room in the back. This is all I'm saying for now. Remember I'm in a Muslim country and all of this is tabu.
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