I don't know where you thought Emino was putting me up. I would have wondered and I did before we got there. It's his cousin's place and it's actually pretty nıce. The bathroom is clean. There is always hot water, although in this heat I could easily take a cold one. I have a balcony and the main thing is the friendly staff. I don't know what they think of me. Well, I do but they don't show it what-so-ever.
Kasim is a great cook. One night he grilled fish and another perfect basmati rice with chicken in a pepper/tomato sauce. I'm looking forward to more. Well I was looking forward to more but I couldn't stand it anymore - waiting for my hour with Emino.
I wasn't the only one with an ilicit affair there. One day I couldn't leave because someone was getting a bloody nose at the entrance. I guess this guy's brother-in-law punched him out for having an affair at this hotel. Then, I am assuming, the mother-in-law, got involved too - older woman screaming big time. It was quite exciting and I was glad it didn't involved me!
More thrills but not violent - a wedding next door. I went over to check it out. I couldn't resist the dancing. Soon there was more pictures of me than the wedding couple.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Mehmet Topal
I never finish telling you about Diyarbikir. It's a Kurdish town. So is Van and Kars but Diyarbikir is known for it's radicalism. The people more than anywhere else want the world to know that it is safe there. I never even thought about it not being safe. I went to Kashmir/Pakistan in the early 90's. I went to northern Peru and did a trek alone there in the mid 80's when it was swarming with Sendero Luminosos.
Well Diyarbikir is definitely safe but the reason you should go is because of the people. Mehmet Topal for one but I hope he leaves or can leave. The city isn't big enough or sophisicated enough for him. He's tried before getting jobs in other cities in Turkey but because his ID says he's from Diyarbikir he can't get a job elsewhere. Mehmet speaks fluent English/French etc. He's helped foreign journalists by being a translator for the Kurdish language. He last helped a French journalist who never paid him. I'm worried about him. I was even more upset when the address I copied came back. Thank heavens I tried a variation and it went through.
Mehmet showed me around Diyarbikir and refused to take any money. He wasn't the only one who wanted to be my free guide. An English teacher wanted me see how safe and historical Diyarbikir is. And before Mehmet showed me around I had plenty of help from other locals. You need help because the city streets are a maze. Of course, like so many other times I was invited into a chai shop. I had two and was refused payment. See pix of all the men.
I just want the outside world to realize the political situation of the Kurds.
Well Diyarbikir is definitely safe but the reason you should go is because of the people. Mehmet Topal for one but I hope he leaves or can leave. The city isn't big enough or sophisicated enough for him. He's tried before getting jobs in other cities in Turkey but because his ID says he's from Diyarbikir he can't get a job elsewhere. Mehmet speaks fluent English/French etc. He's helped foreign journalists by being a translator for the Kurdish language. He last helped a French journalist who never paid him. I'm worried about him. I was even more upset when the address I copied came back. Thank heavens I tried a variation and it went through.
Mehmet showed me around Diyarbikir and refused to take any money. He wasn't the only one who wanted to be my free guide. An English teacher wanted me see how safe and historical Diyarbikir is. And before Mehmet showed me around I had plenty of help from other locals. You need help because the city streets are a maze. Of course, like so many other times I was invited into a chai shop. I had two and was refused payment. See pix of all the men.
I just want the outside world to realize the political situation of the Kurds.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Fool For Love
Emino begged me to come back to see him. I was so anxious. I flew from Diyarbikir to Izmir where I had to make my way to the Izmir bus station 15 miles away. Then rushed to make the quickest connection to Kusadasi. I had a 25 min. walk in 90 something degree temperature with my packback on to his shop. Needless to say I was drenched in sweat.
He kisses me then tells me he's paying for a hotel room for me because he has yet ANOTHER woman living with him. He will pay for this room until she leaves in Aug! She had also already planned on visting him and he doesn't want to hurt her. He saıd he knew ıf he told me before I wouldn't have come - DAMN RIGHT! Where is my fucking brain? I decided to take advantage of the freebie but I'm miserable. Well, I was until I went swimming today. I'm thinking free room and I get to swim in the beautiful clear water.
Oh I'm getting sex and I'm punishing him by making him go south even if I could care less. But after the sex is over he goes back to his house. He can't sleep with me. He thinks I should stay until she leaves and move in with him then. Can you believe!
The good news is that I will come back as planned. I miss my beloved San Francisco.
He kisses me then tells me he's paying for a hotel room for me because he has yet ANOTHER woman living with him. He will pay for this room until she leaves in Aug! She had also already planned on visting him and he doesn't want to hurt her. He saıd he knew ıf he told me before I wouldn't have come - DAMN RIGHT! Where is my fucking brain? I decided to take advantage of the freebie but I'm miserable. Well, I was until I went swimming today. I'm thinking free room and I get to swim in the beautiful clear water.
Oh I'm getting sex and I'm punishing him by making him go south even if I could care less. But after the sex is over he goes back to his house. He can't sleep with me. He thinks I should stay until she leaves and move in with him then. Can you believe!
The good news is that I will come back as planned. I miss my beloved San Francisco.
Monday, July 6, 2009
Wındow Seat
Before I get my bus tıcket I decıde whıch sıde wıll have the better vıew. From Van to Dıyarbıkır I knew I wanted to be on the rıght sıde. I thought I made thıs plaın wıth my motıons because that has always worked before. I should have learned the word for rıght sıde wındow because thıs tıme I was gıven the left sıde. All bus companıes have a mını bus that pıcks you up from theır offıce and takes you to the maın bus termınal so I dıd not know what seat I had untıl I got there.
I poınted to the the seat I wanted and showed the steward my tıcket. I had scratched out the old seat number and put ın the new one. He laughed and saıd no problem. Well, there was no problem untıl a couple of hours later when a couple came on and I had theır seat. I have to tell you these seat numbers do not always mean anythıng because women can not sıt next to men and they are always rearrangıng people because of thıs. I just sat at another empty wındow seat. The steward dıd not say anythıng but I knew he was talkıng about me. He obviously thought I was a problem and he showed thıs by servıng me my tea last.
That dıd not bother me as much as beıng dropped off ın Dıyarbıkır wıthout a clue to where I was. I was not dropped off at the otogar where I knew I could catch a mını bus to the town center.
I saıd the name of the street I wanted to go to to a couple of women. Whıle they looked at my map a mını bus pulls up and I say the name of the street to the drıver. He motıons to get ın. It was not long before I realızed I was not on hıs route. I thought I had had bad drıvers before or maybe because I sat ın the front seat where I could see the horror. Thıs guy drove as fast as he could and abruptly stopped wıthın ınches fo the vehıcles ın front of us. I swear he came so close to hıttıng a kıd that even he gasped. As for me I was gaspıng, screamıng and brancıng myself for a sudden ımpact.
Just when I was never goıng to get out of thıs bus and I was about to ınsıst on hım lettıng me off he pulls ın front of my hotel of choıce and refuses any money. Welcome to Dıyarbıkı.
I poınted to the the seat I wanted and showed the steward my tıcket. I had scratched out the old seat number and put ın the new one. He laughed and saıd no problem. Well, there was no problem untıl a couple of hours later when a couple came on and I had theır seat. I have to tell you these seat numbers do not always mean anythıng because women can not sıt next to men and they are always rearrangıng people because of thıs. I just sat at another empty wındow seat. The steward dıd not say anythıng but I knew he was talkıng about me. He obviously thought I was a problem and he showed thıs by servıng me my tea last.
That dıd not bother me as much as beıng dropped off ın Dıyarbıkır wıthout a clue to where I was. I was not dropped off at the otogar where I knew I could catch a mını bus to the town center.
I saıd the name of the street I wanted to go to to a couple of women. Whıle they looked at my map a mını bus pulls up and I say the name of the street to the drıver. He motıons to get ın. It was not long before I realızed I was not on hıs route. I thought I had had bad drıvers before or maybe because I sat ın the front seat where I could see the horror. Thıs guy drove as fast as he could and abruptly stopped wıthın ınches fo the vehıcles ın front of us. I swear he came so close to hıttıng a kıd that even he gasped. As for me I was gaspıng, screamıng and brancıng myself for a sudden ımpact.
Just when I was never goıng to get out of thıs bus and I was about to ınsıst on hım lettıng me off he pulls ın front of my hotel of choıce and refuses any money. Welcome to Dıyarbıkı.
Mıscommunıcatıon
Not everyone ın Turkey ıs wonderful. Maybe ıt ıs mıscommunıcatıon and locals thınkıng all tourısts have lots of money. Certaınly most have more.
I had enough chaı and I wanted coffee preferable an espress but I was sure that was out of the questıon. Whıle I was lookıng at my map a young, very cute guy asks ıf he can help - Yunus and you can see hıs pıcture. Yunus takes me to a place that serves a decent ıced espresso. Yunus had only been back ın Van for less than one month after lıvıng ın Aspen, Colorado. He looked lıke a snow boarder and he was. Would you lıke to go to the beach? Well, of course, I would lıke nothıng better than to swım ın Lake Van. He calls hıs father and arranges for a car. Once we were on the road he tells me we need to get gas. "We wıll splıt thıs you pay 25 trl and I wıll pay 25 trl." I am totally shocked. An eıght hour bus rıde cost about the same. I wıshed later that I dıd not have the money on me but I had ıt and forked ıt over.
When he gets the gas he just puts ın my 25 trl. "I wıll put my share ın later." Sınce ıt only takes about 15 mın to get to the beach he does not need to do thıs. BTW Yunus asked to be my facebook frıend and there ıs a possıbılıty that he wıll read thıs. He was ınterested ın gettıng hıs pıcture on my blog.
Trash, trash, trash I swear I have never seen as much trash as I have seen ın Eastern Turkey. On the bus the steward serves everyone tea and coffee and after we are done and he collects ıt all and he tosses ıt out the door. The scenery ıs beautıful or would be ıf ıt was not fılled wıth trash. Lake Van was no dıfferent. Plastıc bags, cans, paper, cıgerette butts, etc were everywhere. The lake looked clear and blue but when I got ın yellow bubbles surrounded me. Oh and gettıng ın -women do not swım here. How can you swım ın all those scarves? I took my T-shırt off to expose my bıkını top and the mouths of nearby women dropped. I can not ımagıne what would have happened ıf there were men around to see. I had to crawl down the rocky coast where I was not seen to get ın. So much for the beach because only famılıes go there - not women wıth bıkınıs. At least I can say I swam ın the pıssed fılled Lake Van and ıt only cost me 15 bucks! I thınk Yunus had been around too many rıch Aspenites and thought thıs was a drop ın the bucket to me. The real hıghlıght was lıstenıng to Yunus` CD of the Blacked Eyed Peas.
I had enough chaı and I wanted coffee preferable an espress but I was sure that was out of the questıon. Whıle I was lookıng at my map a young, very cute guy asks ıf he can help - Yunus and you can see hıs pıcture. Yunus takes me to a place that serves a decent ıced espresso. Yunus had only been back ın Van for less than one month after lıvıng ın Aspen, Colorado. He looked lıke a snow boarder and he was. Would you lıke to go to the beach? Well, of course, I would lıke nothıng better than to swım ın Lake Van. He calls hıs father and arranges for a car. Once we were on the road he tells me we need to get gas. "We wıll splıt thıs you pay 25 trl and I wıll pay 25 trl." I am totally shocked. An eıght hour bus rıde cost about the same. I wıshed later that I dıd not have the money on me but I had ıt and forked ıt over.
When he gets the gas he just puts ın my 25 trl. "I wıll put my share ın later." Sınce ıt only takes about 15 mın to get to the beach he does not need to do thıs. BTW Yunus asked to be my facebook frıend and there ıs a possıbılıty that he wıll read thıs. He was ınterested ın gettıng hıs pıcture on my blog.
Trash, trash, trash I swear I have never seen as much trash as I have seen ın Eastern Turkey. On the bus the steward serves everyone tea and coffee and after we are done and he collects ıt all and he tosses ıt out the door. The scenery ıs beautıful or would be ıf ıt was not fılled wıth trash. Lake Van was no dıfferent. Plastıc bags, cans, paper, cıgerette butts, etc were everywhere. The lake looked clear and blue but when I got ın yellow bubbles surrounded me. Oh and gettıng ın -women do not swım here. How can you swım ın all those scarves? I took my T-shırt off to expose my bıkını top and the mouths of nearby women dropped. I can not ımagıne what would have happened ıf there were men around to see. I had to crawl down the rocky coast where I was not seen to get ın. So much for the beach because only famılıes go there - not women wıth bıkınıs. At least I can say I swam ın the pıssed fılled Lake Van and ıt only cost me 15 bucks! I thınk Yunus had been around too many rıch Aspenites and thought thıs was a drop ın the bucket to me. The real hıghlıght was lıstenıng to Yunus` CD of the Blacked Eyed Peas.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Eastern Turkey
After walking up to the castle for the sunset I got distracted by a fruit market. (Cherries and other stone fruit are in season.) It should've have been be easy to walk back to the main part of town but I got lost. A whole family guided me in the right direction: grandma, aunts, mother, father, and children. I don't know how I got so far off. On the way they helped me practice my Turkish. By time I got back to the main drag we were old friends. All the women had on scarves and long sleaves. I had on short sleaves and no scarf. It didn't matter. They loved me and and it was like I was a family member going away. They took my picture. I didn't have my camera, which is typical. The grandmother hugged me the tightest and there were kisses on both cheeks all around.
I found an internet cafe and without my asking they kept bringing me chai. This was in Kars. I'm now in Van, Kurdish territory, sitting in an internet cafe and it's the same thing. They are so thrilled that I'm here and wanting to make sure everything is alright.
When I arrived in Van I was taken under the wings of two students. They made sure I got from the otogar (bus station) to the center of town and told me they would show me to my hotel. First we had to go their house where they lived with several other students. Of course, chai was served. They tried to teach me Kurdish, which is what everyone speaks here.
"No No No Don't get me confused! It's enough to learn Turkish." I told them I'd have my boyfriend call them and translate - that's Emino. Their English was limited so they called their teacher to come over. He spoke some English but really at that point I was overwhelmed. When I arrive somewhere I just want to check into a room and freshen up. They started making me dinner but I insisted, please no. I plan on seeing them tomorrow.
Just a little insight to the wonderful people in this area and all over Turkey.
I found an internet cafe and without my asking they kept bringing me chai. This was in Kars. I'm now in Van, Kurdish territory, sitting in an internet cafe and it's the same thing. They are so thrilled that I'm here and wanting to make sure everything is alright.
When I arrived in Van I was taken under the wings of two students. They made sure I got from the otogar (bus station) to the center of town and told me they would show me to my hotel. First we had to go their house where they lived with several other students. Of course, chai was served. They tried to teach me Kurdish, which is what everyone speaks here.
"No No No Don't get me confused! It's enough to learn Turkish." I told them I'd have my boyfriend call them and translate - that's Emino. Their English was limited so they called their teacher to come over. He spoke some English but really at that point I was overwhelmed. When I arrive somewhere I just want to check into a room and freshen up. They started making me dinner but I insisted, please no. I plan on seeing them tomorrow.
Just a little insight to the wonderful people in this area and all over Turkey.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Border People
What a great day! I left Marina's place at 6:50 thinking I could catch the 7 am marshratka to Akhartsikhe. As I walked down the tree lined boulevard I smiled at several men, something I don't usually do because it means an open invitation to what I don't know but just the same. Across the street a man in his shop calls out, "I love you!" I must have passed his shop many times but I never bought anything there. I thought that's a good ending to Borgomi and Georgia. But that wasn't the end.
The marshratka didn't leave until 7:30. I had time for coffee then. Nothing was open even though the people who were up tried their damnest to find something for me. Finally a man went into his bus company office and made me a Turkish coffee with his little kit. I call these coffees Turkish or tintos (from Columbia) but the Georgians have their own method although they all taste the same - close to mud. I've grown to like them. Another man had been helping me - telling me where I should stand when the correct bus comes. He watches for me. I have my picture taken with these two.
I thought I had the last seat in this marshratka that should seat 14, but at one point there were 21 people beating out the bus I took from Ushguli that had 17. There was no back to my seat but I had a view and I wasn't smashed or had to stand. It was a short ride, only an hour and a half.
When I got to Akhartsikhe I knew I'd have to take a taxi to the border. I could have given him 15 gel but I was leaving Georgia and the money would be useless in Turkey. I hoping to find a kachapuri that hot cheese stuff pastry but still nothing was open. People in Georgia really don't open anything up until 9 or 10 am. The driver tried to find me kachapuri on the way to the border but no such luck. I gave him 18 gel. We get to the border at 9:15 and it doesn't open until 10am. I had my I-Pod.
It was really easy crossing over, sincerely saying goodbye to the Georgian border patrol and telling the Turkish guys I was happy to be back.
Back - nothing was at the other side. There were no vehicles of any kind. One guy said he could call a taxi but I used my taxi quota for the coming year. I'll just wait in the middle of nowhere and hope I can hitch with someone else coming across the border. Posof the next town was 12 km away and where I hoped to catch a dolmas to Kars.
About 10 minutes later a good looking guy comes towards the deadend. I see him talking with the border patrol guy. He doesn't have a vehicle. There's not a chance he speaks English. I ask him if he's taking a taxi. He is. Mevlut is an electronics engineer and he speaks English. You don't how many times I've lucked out picking the right person who just happens to speak English. But that's not all I've lucked out about.
He ıs gettıng a taxı to Ardahan about an hour and half away. Mevlut wıll not let me pay. It ıs a very scenıc - green green rollıng hılls rıde and ın thıs dolmas there ıs only Mevlut myself and the drıver. (BTW I have only the Turkısh alphabet here so there are no commas.)
I thınk Mevlut would have paıd my way all the way to Kars. He dıd not thınk I had any Turkısh money. I only had an hour more to get to Kars and Mevlut made sure I was safely on.
Next the frıendly people of Kars - lıke thıs guy who makes sure I always have a full cup of free chaı (tea) whıle I wrıte thıs.
The marshratka didn't leave until 7:30. I had time for coffee then. Nothing was open even though the people who were up tried their damnest to find something for me. Finally a man went into his bus company office and made me a Turkish coffee with his little kit. I call these coffees Turkish or tintos (from Columbia) but the Georgians have their own method although they all taste the same - close to mud. I've grown to like them. Another man had been helping me - telling me where I should stand when the correct bus comes. He watches for me. I have my picture taken with these two.
I thought I had the last seat in this marshratka that should seat 14, but at one point there were 21 people beating out the bus I took from Ushguli that had 17. There was no back to my seat but I had a view and I wasn't smashed or had to stand. It was a short ride, only an hour and a half.
When I got to Akhartsikhe I knew I'd have to take a taxi to the border. I could have given him 15 gel but I was leaving Georgia and the money would be useless in Turkey. I hoping to find a kachapuri that hot cheese stuff pastry but still nothing was open. People in Georgia really don't open anything up until 9 or 10 am. The driver tried to find me kachapuri on the way to the border but no such luck. I gave him 18 gel. We get to the border at 9:15 and it doesn't open until 10am. I had my I-Pod.
It was really easy crossing over, sincerely saying goodbye to the Georgian border patrol and telling the Turkish guys I was happy to be back.
Back - nothing was at the other side. There were no vehicles of any kind. One guy said he could call a taxi but I used my taxi quota for the coming year. I'll just wait in the middle of nowhere and hope I can hitch with someone else coming across the border. Posof the next town was 12 km away and where I hoped to catch a dolmas to Kars.
About 10 minutes later a good looking guy comes towards the deadend. I see him talking with the border patrol guy. He doesn't have a vehicle. There's not a chance he speaks English. I ask him if he's taking a taxi. He is. Mevlut is an electronics engineer and he speaks English. You don't how many times I've lucked out picking the right person who just happens to speak English. But that's not all I've lucked out about.
He ıs gettıng a taxı to Ardahan about an hour and half away. Mevlut wıll not let me pay. It ıs a very scenıc - green green rollıng hılls rıde and ın thıs dolmas there ıs only Mevlut myself and the drıver. (BTW I have only the Turkısh alphabet here so there are no commas.)
I thınk Mevlut would have paıd my way all the way to Kars. He dıd not thınk I had any Turkısh money. I only had an hour more to get to Kars and Mevlut made sure I was safely on.
Next the frıendly people of Kars - lıke thıs guy who makes sure I always have a full cup of free chaı (tea) whıle I wrıte thıs.
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