Over three months ago I made reservations at the hostel where I stayed previously in Istanbul. Except for the winter it's always high season in Istanbul and I wanted to make sure I got an inexpensive nice place. Well, the guy who took my deposit didn't work there anymore. I put a deposit down for one night but made reservations for two. The new employees had none of this information, it wasn't written down anywhere, and having traveled for nine hours to get from Bozcaada to Istanbul I was not happy.
My deposit was for a four bed bunk room but there wasn't one available. They put me in a cheaper eight bunk bed room. The new employees though friendly were incompetent. I decided to let them think I paid for two night instead of one. Karma would probably get me.
Istanbul is a beautiful city and after I had a shower the rest of my time was enjoyable although, I still couldn't eat. This is not typical behavior for me. If anything I over eat.
The next morning I take an uneventful shuttle to the airport and that's where the uneventful stops.
For most people you pay $20 when you get to Turkey and that's good for three months. People who want to stay longer, leave and pay another 20 bucks when they come back.
When I came back from Georgia I paid 20 bucks and the passport police stamped my passport and I thought I was good for another three months.
NO! I guess whoever took my money didn't do the proper paper work (or any paper work) and I was told at the Istanbul airport that I overstayed my visit. Of course, it wasn't just as simple as that. There was the language barrier. My flight was leaving in a half hour. My backpack was already being loaded on the plane. I was one exit stamp away from heading to my gate.
"Go to the passport control office." "Where's that?" I ask. But those were the only English words he knew. I frantically try to find it and when I do and officer there says I must pay more. "But I left Turkey and paid the 20 bucks when I returned. Here's the stamp that proves it."
"That stamp doesn't count, only the first one," the officer says. I tried to explain. He wouldn't listen. "Go to tourist information." I end up running, literally running to the tourist info desk, the passport contol office, and the chief of the passport control who was near the exit gate - to each of these places three times.
Why, you ask? Well, the fine was $200 and at one point, because I had learned all those Turkish curse words, I had the passport control officer throw my money and passport at me. The scene was getting pretty ugly. I thought they might throw me in jail. Maybe I should act more like a damsel in distress than a Tasmanian Devil.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Can't Get Enough Food
I had the most fantastic meal at Yosun's two nights before I left Bozcaada. I don't know why but they love me and give me special treatment, prices and extras. I hope I can duplicate at least their salads. They will definitely be on my dinner party menus.
The salads here, as I've said before, have parsley, dill and mint in them. That night it was just those three main ingredients and it was perfect. It was the dressing, which had a tiny bit of the exceptionally delicious extra virgin olive oil, Bozcaada has some of the best I've ever tasted. But the kicker was the pomogranite juice and seeds.
I also had stuffed grilled squid with dill flavored cheese; pine nuts and cardamon rice stuffed squash blossoms; roasted red peppers stuffed with herbed cream cheese; and the best, which Yusef always treats me to, a toro type sashimi - fatty raw fish that melts in your mouth.
Lisa makes perfect el dente pastas, crispy pizzas, and authentic stir fries. Her cheesecake is the best I've ever had. I use to think Cafe Grecos or L'Osteria del Forno in San Francisco had the best. Both are Italian sytle as is Lisa's, but Lisa's beats them out. Forget that awful Cheesecake Factory shit! But since I obviously eat at Lisa's often I decided to go back to Yosun's for my last meal.
Unfortunately, I was so upset about leaving Bozcaada I could barely eat. Still I ordered three mezes and two glasses of wine like I did the night before. It was all delicious but because of my state I couldn't enjoy it as much. I was sure the bill would be the same as last night 25 trl ($15). I never asked the prices at Yosun's. I usually got what Yusef suggested. I have never paid more than 25trl, but unlike any other time I guess tonight the owner was there. I was shocked when I saw that my bill was 50 trl! I didn't have enough money on me and had to run to Lisa's house to get my credit card. Yusef and Ercon, my other buddy, were embarassed but it wasn't their fault. It didn't stop me from crying as I said goodbye.
I then went to Lisa's Cafe and said goodbye to her employees; Jon who made me practice Turkish and make me say it correctly and sweet tiny Merve who always wore the most adorable clothes. I was crying big time then and I cried as I said goodbye to all of Bozcaada as I made my way back to Lisa's house to sleep. I was catching the early ferry off the island in the morning.
The salads here, as I've said before, have parsley, dill and mint in them. That night it was just those three main ingredients and it was perfect. It was the dressing, which had a tiny bit of the exceptionally delicious extra virgin olive oil, Bozcaada has some of the best I've ever tasted. But the kicker was the pomogranite juice and seeds.
I also had stuffed grilled squid with dill flavored cheese; pine nuts and cardamon rice stuffed squash blossoms; roasted red peppers stuffed with herbed cream cheese; and the best, which Yusef always treats me to, a toro type sashimi - fatty raw fish that melts in your mouth.
Lisa makes perfect el dente pastas, crispy pizzas, and authentic stir fries. Her cheesecake is the best I've ever had. I use to think Cafe Grecos or L'Osteria del Forno in San Francisco had the best. Both are Italian sytle as is Lisa's, but Lisa's beats them out. Forget that awful Cheesecake Factory shit! But since I obviously eat at Lisa's often I decided to go back to Yosun's for my last meal.
Unfortunately, I was so upset about leaving Bozcaada I could barely eat. Still I ordered three mezes and two glasses of wine like I did the night before. It was all delicious but because of my state I couldn't enjoy it as much. I was sure the bill would be the same as last night 25 trl ($15). I never asked the prices at Yosun's. I usually got what Yusef suggested. I have never paid more than 25trl, but unlike any other time I guess tonight the owner was there. I was shocked when I saw that my bill was 50 trl! I didn't have enough money on me and had to run to Lisa's house to get my credit card. Yusef and Ercon, my other buddy, were embarassed but it wasn't their fault. It didn't stop me from crying as I said goodbye.
I then went to Lisa's Cafe and said goodbye to her employees; Jon who made me practice Turkish and make me say it correctly and sweet tiny Merve who always wore the most adorable clothes. I was crying big time then and I cried as I said goodbye to all of Bozcaada as I made my way back to Lisa's house to sleep. I was catching the early ferry off the island in the morning.
Bunny Suits
Even here in Bozcaada on Ayazma Beach there are women in what I call bunny suits. No not the Playboy bunny suits, but the ones kids wear on Halloween. The only thing missing are the ears. They are waterproof. I thought of bunny suits because I saw one woman wearing a pink one. I've also seen blue and the traditional black. Their husbands wear swimming trunks and the kids, whether they are male or female, wear what other kids wear. Only the mother is made to look like a sack of potatoes. She can't swim but floats around like a whale. To each their own I say but I can't help but feel disgusted. Lisa says they should be shot. "Lisa, really don't be so violent!"
Unfortunately I have no pictures.
Unfortunately I have no pictures.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Tenedos
I love Bozcaada and the local people. I make my rounds and practice speaking Turkish with everyone. I will have spent a month here total. In April I was the only tourist and now Bozcaada is packed, especially this weekend because the head patriarch of the Greek Othodox church is here. The patriarch hasn't been here in forty years or something like that. There is still a Greek section in Bozcaada but most were removed in the 20's. The Greeks called Bozcaada Tenedos. When the Patriarch came off the ferry he was surrounded by Greeks. Many Greeks came here to see him. He's like the Pope. I'm as religious as an ant but I shook his hand. It was all quite exciting.
When I say packed I mean compared to other beach resorts. Bozcaada is not a resort. It hasn't been discovered - really. Thank god for the all the vineyards on the island. There's not a lot of room for more growth..
Every morning I hitch to my favorite beach, Ayazma. In April I didn't mind walking the whole way, but it's too hot now. Well, not anywhere as hot elsewhere on the Turkish coast and at night there is a pleasant breeze.
There wasn't a shuttle going to the beach in April but there is now. Although it doesn't leave early enough for me. I like to swim in the morning and leave by 1 pm when it gets crowded. Sometimes it takes one ride and sometimes three and sometimes I still have to walk a lot. Yesterday Scooter Boy saw me and made a U-turn. He tried to make a detour but I said No. He doesn't understand. Today I got a ride all the way in a Jaguar.
I have a ritual. First thing is to the borek cafe, where Umit works. Savoy stuffed bread things and orange juice. When I come back from the beach I might do some things for Lisa at the Cafe and at night if it's busy with English speaking tourists I translate. I really like this because I love to talk. The tourists from Istanbul usually speak English and I get to have fun conversing with them. I feel like I've made so many friends.
Like I said before (months ago) Lisa owns the local paper. The night before, a famous Turkish lithographer, Fethi Kayaap had a gallery showing here. He was born on Bozcaada and he came back to show the influence it had on him. I got to go with Lisa. There was lots of wine from the local vineyards and appetizers. The place was filled with wealthy people and me. I feel honor to be Lisa's friend.
When I say packed I mean compared to other beach resorts. Bozcaada is not a resort. It hasn't been discovered - really. Thank god for the all the vineyards on the island. There's not a lot of room for more growth..
Every morning I hitch to my favorite beach, Ayazma. In April I didn't mind walking the whole way, but it's too hot now. Well, not anywhere as hot elsewhere on the Turkish coast and at night there is a pleasant breeze.
There wasn't a shuttle going to the beach in April but there is now. Although it doesn't leave early enough for me. I like to swim in the morning and leave by 1 pm when it gets crowded. Sometimes it takes one ride and sometimes three and sometimes I still have to walk a lot. Yesterday Scooter Boy saw me and made a U-turn. He tried to make a detour but I said No. He doesn't understand. Today I got a ride all the way in a Jaguar.
I have a ritual. First thing is to the borek cafe, where Umit works. Savoy stuffed bread things and orange juice. When I come back from the beach I might do some things for Lisa at the Cafe and at night if it's busy with English speaking tourists I translate. I really like this because I love to talk. The tourists from Istanbul usually speak English and I get to have fun conversing with them. I feel like I've made so many friends.
Like I said before (months ago) Lisa owns the local paper. The night before, a famous Turkish lithographer, Fethi Kayaap had a gallery showing here. He was born on Bozcaada and he came back to show the influence it had on him. I got to go with Lisa. There was lots of wine from the local vineyards and appetizers. The place was filled with wealthy people and me. I feel honor to be Lisa's friend.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
When Are You Going to Grow Up?!
I've heard this many times during my life. The last few days I've been running around with a couple of 26 yr old girls. I swear I'm the same age. I am perpetually stuck at the age of 26. I can't get out of this cyclone. It's exhausting. My 52 yr old body can't take it, but I see no end. I thought I had it bad but here is a couple of stories that made me feel better about my situation.
I am changing the name of these two girls for their protection. Samamtha, while studying architecture on the Aegean Sea, met a local Turk. A Turk with tatoos and dreadlocks and, of course, amazing in bed. It seems he wanted to marry her after only one night. Even more unusual was the fact that his mother wants him to marry her too. In front of Samamtha she says what beautiful children they would have and how much Yasun loves her. Does it have something to do with her being an American?
It was all idyllic until they left their oasis and went to Izmir. Then Yasun started drinking heavily and became possessive and hostile, something to do with his father I take it. The clincher was when he made out with another woman. Samamtha witnessed this and took off with Yasun chasing after her. He grabbed her arms and started dragging her through the streets. She has a huge gash on her leg from being dragged through a gutter and had to be taken to the hospital.
Samamtha decided she had to get away and during the night she slipped away and changed hotels. I would think he was a nut case and would leave the country, but no she has forgave him and when I last saw her she was on her way to Istanbul to meet him again.
Oh then there is Kathy. She met an Israeli in New Orleans. He cheated on her right and left, but when they were together she thought they had such a wonderful connection. Even Samamtha thought they were good together. Still Kathy couldn't take it anymore and went to India for a year to get over him. While she was in India she met another former girlfriend of the Israeli and discovered he was selling Dead Sea Salt in some shopping mall in Denver where it so happened Samamtha was living.
She goes to Denver and has Samamtha, who was in the middle of her masters' finals, take her to every shopping mall in the area. Well Kathy found him and since his visa was about to expire she married him. Now she still lives in New Orleans and he lives in Denver. She's not over him. Go figure!
I'm telling you this because although I am going back to the States next week I may be back. I decided my situation is no where near as crazy as theirs. I don't want a relationship and Emino doesn't beat me. I just want him to myself which he has promised if I come back - OH YEA! If I do, believe me, I will make a scene. Emino has given me permission, not that I need it!
Oh god! Hopefully San Francisco will help me get over all this craziness.
I actually love Bozcaada and Lisa more. I think I will miss them the most. I hate Kusadasi I would only be going there for the sex. I was even thinking of sleeping with poor scooter boy again, he has been so sweet. He doesn't understand why I don't want to be with him again but he hasn't pressured me. I doubt that I do though only because I may come back and that would make it worse.
I am changing the name of these two girls for their protection. Samamtha, while studying architecture on the Aegean Sea, met a local Turk. A Turk with tatoos and dreadlocks and, of course, amazing in bed. It seems he wanted to marry her after only one night. Even more unusual was the fact that his mother wants him to marry her too. In front of Samamtha she says what beautiful children they would have and how much Yasun loves her. Does it have something to do with her being an American?
It was all idyllic until they left their oasis and went to Izmir. Then Yasun started drinking heavily and became possessive and hostile, something to do with his father I take it. The clincher was when he made out with another woman. Samamtha witnessed this and took off with Yasun chasing after her. He grabbed her arms and started dragging her through the streets. She has a huge gash on her leg from being dragged through a gutter and had to be taken to the hospital.
Samamtha decided she had to get away and during the night she slipped away and changed hotels. I would think he was a nut case and would leave the country, but no she has forgave him and when I last saw her she was on her way to Istanbul to meet him again.
Oh then there is Kathy. She met an Israeli in New Orleans. He cheated on her right and left, but when they were together she thought they had such a wonderful connection. Even Samamtha thought they were good together. Still Kathy couldn't take it anymore and went to India for a year to get over him. While she was in India she met another former girlfriend of the Israeli and discovered he was selling Dead Sea Salt in some shopping mall in Denver where it so happened Samamtha was living.
She goes to Denver and has Samamtha, who was in the middle of her masters' finals, take her to every shopping mall in the area. Well Kathy found him and since his visa was about to expire she married him. Now she still lives in New Orleans and he lives in Denver. She's not over him. Go figure!
I'm telling you this because although I am going back to the States next week I may be back. I decided my situation is no where near as crazy as theirs. I don't want a relationship and Emino doesn't beat me. I just want him to myself which he has promised if I come back - OH YEA! If I do, believe me, I will make a scene. Emino has given me permission, not that I need it!
Oh god! Hopefully San Francisco will help me get over all this craziness.
I actually love Bozcaada and Lisa more. I think I will miss them the most. I hate Kusadasi I would only be going there for the sex. I was even thinking of sleeping with poor scooter boy again, he has been so sweet. He doesn't understand why I don't want to be with him again but he hasn't pressured me. I doubt that I do though only because I may come back and that would make it worse.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Oh yea I'm good
So when Emino gets off work he comes to see me at the hotel. I try my best to wear him out before he leaves. Poor guy I don't how long he can keep going like this - lying and keeping it up for everyone. He tells me, "You're wild. I like sex with you." I say to myself, "I'm so - so out of here!"
I told you about Mehmet, the young boy in Diyarbikir. Mehmet was only 22 yrs old and he had a Brazilian gilfriend who was 47 yrs old. He has since told me that she wants nothing to do with him. If we both knew that we were both being shit on we would have slept together. I really don't Emino to know this because I want him to find him a job but he now has my blog site.
Yes, the sex was great with Emino. I'm addicted to new sex. All the positions with someone different are not boring. I tried to get my money's worth. Two months more and I would have had enough. I wouldn't have cared if he had someone else then but I wasn't ready for that yet. I couldn't take him leaving after we were finished. Our last night I kept him until 3 am. The other girl (she was 30 yrs old) must have been a fool. On the other hand she was the one staying at his house. It's nice to have a free place to stay when you go on a trip.
I went back to Bozcaada. I really want nothing to do with scooter boy this time, but he doesn't understand, since he speaks no English, why I am brushing him off. He follows me around. He waits outside the internet cafe, he walks by Lisa's Cafe a hundred times. All he can say is, "Rosa Rosa Rosa." with sad puppy eyes.
Such is life!
I told you about Mehmet, the young boy in Diyarbikir. Mehmet was only 22 yrs old and he had a Brazilian gilfriend who was 47 yrs old. He has since told me that she wants nothing to do with him. If we both knew that we were both being shit on we would have slept together. I really don't Emino to know this because I want him to find him a job but he now has my blog site.
Yes, the sex was great with Emino. I'm addicted to new sex. All the positions with someone different are not boring. I tried to get my money's worth. Two months more and I would have had enough. I wouldn't have cared if he had someone else then but I wasn't ready for that yet. I couldn't take him leaving after we were finished. Our last night I kept him until 3 am. The other girl (she was 30 yrs old) must have been a fool. On the other hand she was the one staying at his house. It's nice to have a free place to stay when you go on a trip.
I went back to Bozcaada. I really want nothing to do with scooter boy this time, but he doesn't understand, since he speaks no English, why I am brushing him off. He follows me around. He waits outside the internet cafe, he walks by Lisa's Cafe a hundred times. All he can say is, "Rosa Rosa Rosa." with sad puppy eyes.
Such is life!
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Stories Behind the Pictures
I mentioned in previous blogs both my hairdresser, pedicurist, and Ali, the beach boy. You must go back six weeks when I was in Kusadasi the first time. They are now my dear friends.
Fetih, Seda, and a friend of theirs, Gulchin taught me all these nasty words to call Emino. Some are so nasty I can no longer have people write their names and such in the back of my journal. One person saw the words and was shocked. I tried to explain fun at the salon. But I know they have a different opinion of me now. One word is something I don't even say at home and it's not MFer.
Ali said the guy is a bastard and I am way to good to put up with that. Everyday he's had to listen to the torrid affair and has given me sympathy. I will miss these people. I'm going to Bozcaada tomorrow. Lisa, my friend with the cafe, says to get my ass there ASAP. She needs some fun. I will not be seeing scooter boy this time. NO WAY- No shephard hut for me. Emino is bad but I really needed my head examined for that one!
Fetih, Seda, and a friend of theirs, Gulchin taught me all these nasty words to call Emino. Some are so nasty I can no longer have people write their names and such in the back of my journal. One person saw the words and was shocked. I tried to explain fun at the salon. But I know they have a different opinion of me now. One word is something I don't even say at home and it's not MFer.
Ali said the guy is a bastard and I am way to good to put up with that. Everyday he's had to listen to the torrid affair and has given me sympathy. I will miss these people. I'm going to Bozcaada tomorrow. Lisa, my friend with the cafe, says to get my ass there ASAP. She needs some fun. I will not be seeing scooter boy this time. NO WAY- No shephard hut for me. Emino is bad but I really needed my head examined for that one!
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