Tenedos

I love Bozcaada and the local people. I make my rounds and practice speaking Turkish with everyone. I will have spent a month here total. In April I was the only tourist and now Bozcaada is packed, especially this weekend because the head patriarch of the Greek Othodox church is here. The patriarch hasn't been here in forty years or something like that. There is still a Greek section in Bozcaada but most were removed in the 20's. The Greeks called Bozcaada Tenedos. When the Patriarch came off the ferry he was surrounded by Greeks. Many Greeks came here to see him. He's like the Pope. I'm as religious as an ant but I shook his hand. It was all quite exciting.

When I say packed I mean compared to other beach resorts. Bozcaada is not a resort. It hasn't been discovered - really. Thank god for the all the vineyards on the island. There's not a lot of room for more growth..

Every morning I hitch to my favorite beach, Ayazma. In April I didn't mind walking the whole way, but it's too hot now. Well, not anywhere as hot elsewhere on the Turkish coast and at night there is a pleasant breeze.

There wasn't a shuttle going to the beach in April but there is now. Although it doesn't leave early enough for me. I like to swim in the morning and leave by 1 pm when it gets crowded. Sometimes it takes one ride and sometimes three and sometimes I still have to walk a lot. Yesterday Scooter Boy saw me and made a U-turn. He tried to make a detour but I said No. He doesn't understand. Today I got a ride all the way in a Jaguar.

I have a ritual. First thing is to the borek cafe, where Umit works. Savoy stuffed bread things and orange juice. When I come back from the beach I might do some things for Lisa at the Cafe and at night if it's busy with English speaking tourists I translate. I really like this because I love to talk. The tourists from Istanbul usually speak English and I get to have fun conversing with them. I feel like I've made so many friends.

Like I said before (months ago) Lisa owns the local paper. The night before, a famous Turkish lithographer, Fethi Kayaap had a gallery showing here. He was born on Bozcaada and he came back to show the influence it had on him. I got to go with Lisa. There was lots of wine from the local vineyards and appetizers. The place was filled with wealthy people and me. I feel honor to be Lisa's friend.