Homestays

As much as I liked Zhora Kaldeni and Kato when I saw the food they laid out for me I was really disappointed. I was ravenous after my long trek here, but all they put on the table was jam, bread, and cheese. The cheese they put in their bread to bake is different than the type they serve by itself. It's like a dry mozzarella but much, much more saltier - way saltier than any feta. I don't really like it. This hasn't been a problem before because there was always been an abundance of other food to eat. After my spread in Zhabeshi I couldn't believe this was all I was getting. What could I say? I ate it and went to bed immediately.

For breakfast I got the exact same thing. Oh well, I decided not to let this bother me They are poor people although Zhora was pretty fat. What bother me was that they called a guide in Mestia because they didn't think I should take the route I planned on taking.

David Zhorzhliani told me there was too much snow the way I wanted to go. I know if he thought I was a man it would have been alright. I ignored his advice. I didn't want to go the boring flat way. I told myself I'd walk the way I wanted first and if it looked bad I'd turn around.

It was an easy walk - all level, until the pass which went through the snow. This is why I was told not to go this way. I've walked through lots of snow, camped in snow. What's the big deal? David was right about one thing. You couldn't see the markers but it was an obvious route. After the pass the trail became level again and it was level all the way to Iprali my next stop.

This time I stayed with Ucha Margvelani, my only option. He wanted 40 gel, 15 gel more than the Naveriani family in Zhabeshi and 10 more then Zhora. He did have a beautiful pressed metal and wood house with lots of windows and a brand new bathroom with the biggest tub I've seen on this trip and indoor toilet.

But dinner was just bread and cheese. I got my Russian phrase book out and went through the food list. It was no for everything until I came to eggs. His employee, Maria, went out to the chicken coop, got a couple of eggs and fried them up for me. Exhausted, I went to bed. At 11:15 Maria wakes me. I'm not happy about this, but curious. I go downstairs to the dining area and laid out for me is more bread and cheese. I grumble, turn around and go back to bed.

The next morning for breakfast I have a huge feast and vodka. Something was lost in the translation. I drink a vodka shot with Ucha. This pleases him and he kisses me. Everything is cool.

The walk to Ushguli from Iprali was easy. I stayed in Ushguli two nights because the following day I planned on hiking to Shkara Glacier. Ushguli, like all the villages on this trek, has backed mud paths that connect the village homes and stores (if they have them) together. In Ushguli's case the mud is really shit and lots of it: cow shit, goat shit, sheep shit, chicken shit, and dog shit. My boots are covered in it.

I stay with Nino Ratiani cousin, Dato. I have to tell you more about Nino later. I stayed with her and her husband in Mestia. I will return to her place. She's keeping things of mind I didn't need to bring on this trek. When I get to Dato's, Dato is drunk. This I didn't mind, his family whisked him off to bed, but what was strange was that his daughter seemed to have gone into a trance and while I was eatting dinner. She sits next to me and recites what I assume are religious connotations loudly and continuously even after I get up and leave.

Dato's wife put out a fabulous dinner for me. The best thing was this abergine spread which I first thought was mushrooms. The abergine had been dried, then reconstituted with cream. I dipped the meat, potatoes and bread into it.

The next morning before I left to the glacier I witnessed Anzor, Dato's son, and Anzor's friends butcher a calf. They killed the calf so quickly it never made a sound. Because I requested it I had the tongue for a late lunch. The best I couldn't get until breakfast because it needed to sit overnight: beef pate.

Next about Nino and vegetarian food.