Plugs

Okay, where was I? I was still in Dilijan, Armenia, which I loved, but the hiking trails weren't very well developed and I don't like bushwacking it for long periods. I did go with this Aussy on a day hike - a mistake except he paid for the taxi ride to the trailhead. I would have bushwacked it a bit there but he didn't want to. He didn't trust my judgement, although he had basically nil trekking experience. I decided since he had been suppling the beer and wine I would turn around with him and go back. I hate defeat, but.

I go back to Georgia. I said I don't care for cities too much. San Francisco is one I love and Tbilisi isn't bad either. It's has beautiful, old architecture, some brick, some cobble stone streets that wind through charming neighborhoods. It has Orthodox churches, Armenian churches, a Mosque and a Synagogue all within a few blocks. There's lots of interesting galleries, hip cafes and excellent restaurants. I rarely eat food from other cultures when I'm in a particular country. I prefer to eat the local cuisine, but my last night in Tbilisi I had Chinese and it was amazingly good. I had cold marinated mushrooms in sesame oil and spicy hot sauteed beef with mushrooms and other thinnly sliced vegies that was as good as best I've had in San Francisco. Of course, a delicious Georgian white wine to go with it.

I stayed one night again at Lmedo's home (Nina's sister's place) then left the next day to go to Kazbegi. Kazbegi is only three hours from Tbilisi. On the way up the mini van stops at a place where women sell dried fruit on a stick. Across the street above the river sits the toilet. This one doesn't have a hole going down to the river. No the shit goes no where. It just rises up to the top and overflows and overflows and overflows. The flies make their way from the toilet to the dried fruit sticks. Another passenger offered me one and I refrained.

I just love mountain towns and Kazbegi was no different. I stayed at Nunu's. I had a nice room with a porch and near the very clean bathroom. What I really loved was being able to wash my clothes. Nunu had a big bucket I could use. My sink plug doesn't work for any of the sinks I've had on this trip. Unlike western sinks there is nothing to stop the water from going on down the drain, making it difficult to wash clothes. I took full advantage of the bucket and her clothes line washing everything I brought.

The next morning I hiked up to the Tsminga Church. There seemed to be some pilgrimage going on. Old women, young women in high heels were trekking up these steep mountains trails to get to the church. Men were going too but, at least, they weren't burdened by stockings and heels. It was hot and I couldn't imagine wearing these thick stockings let alone heels.

When I got to the church I sat on a wall and unzipped my pant legs to make them shorts. Immediately a boy runs over to me with a blanket, I thought for me to sit on. I wave no. Then a woman comes over with one and then I realize I'm suppose to be covered. I didn't plan on going in the church. I read that the outside was more interesting but I guess some higher priest was visiting and I was an embarassment. I just jumped over a wall and headed up the ridge to the glacier that I really wanted to see.

There was no trail to speak of, you just follow the ridge. I've followed plenty of ridges before. You can't get lost, but just to make sure a had a little dog lead the way. Later I read about this little dog. The author wrongly called it a he. The dog was definitely a female and for females around the world I take offense.